What Is Caper Pesto?

Many regard the collection of volcanic Aeolian Islands just north of Sicily as the most beautiful archipelago in the Mediterranean. These volcanic islands and their microclimate make them perfect for the growth of caper bushes, which gives the local pesto an unmistakably salty, briny tang.

You're going to either love or hate caper pesto.

While the playboys and playgirls of Italy may have made Panarea the most famous and expensive of the seven islands, we're much more enamoured with Salina, where the islanders cultivate what some regard as the finest capers on the planet.

Rather like Marmite, though, people tend to love or hate capers. More often than not, the haters have been overwhelmed with their briny pungency. That is why, when serving capers to sceptics, we give the capers a quick soak in cold water before serving and see if it changes their minds. You can even enjoy deep-fried capers as a salty and unhealthy snack!

Just like the island of Pantelleria, Salina has fertile volcanic soil, long periods of sun, and a cool sea breeze, which creates the perfect growing conditions for capers.

Known as the orchids of Salina, from May to August, the locals gather the tiny caper buds before curing them in salt for several months to remove any trace of bitterness. They feature heavily in the local cuisine and, naturally, are the star of the show when it comes to Aeolian pesto.

Ingredients for caper pesto

How to make caper pesto

Cut a small "X" on the bottom of each tomato and blanch for 30 seconds. Transfer to a bowl of ice water to cool. Peel off the skin and cut each tomato into quarters. Discard the seeds and blot with a sheet of kitchen towel to remove excess juices.

Thoroughly rinse the capers and wash the basil and mint.

Add all the ingredients except the olive oil to a food processor and pulse until the sauce reaches your preferred consistency.

Transfer the sauce to a mixing bowl and slowly stream in the olive oil while stirring by hand.