How To Make Massimo Bottura's Pesto Recipe

Massimo Bottura, the three Michelin-starred chef and author of Never Trust a Skinny Italian Chef, has been described as gastronomy's Jimmy Hendrix. Never afraid to ruffle a few feathers, his use of breadcrumbs (not to mention mint, parsley, and thyme) in what is otherwise a fairly traditional pesto recipe didn't go down well with those who look upon Italian cuisine with a little more nostalgia.

Proponents of Massimo Bottura's pesto recipe

In the popular TV show River Cottage Every Day, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall showed his support for the use of breadcrumbs in pesto, suggesting it adds body and a pleasing crunch to the sauce. Regardless of the arguments for or against the use of breadcrumbs, we rather like the frugality of using them. After all, Italian cookery has a precedent for cooking with whatever you can afford. You only need to look at the history of pasta to see that available finances are at its very heart. Those in the north of the country made their dough with eggs, while those in the south couldn't afford eggs and had to make do with water.

Bottura's use of stale bread to make pesto is rather trendy from a waste perspective, too. Italian cuisine has a proud history of using ingredients that are local, seasonal, and abundant. The whole reason basil is the star ingredient in pesto Genovese is because the Ligurians knew they had the world's best basil growing in the hills all around them. So to scorn the inclusion of breadcrumbs, particularly if that is all a cook has to hand, is to rather misunderstand the history of pesto itself.

Massimo Bottura's pesto recipe (10 servings)

How to make breadcrumb pesto

Add the herbs to a blender along with the cheese, garlic, and breadcrumbs. Bottura recommends adding a couple of ice cubes too, which he says helps prevent the herbs from oxidising and turning bitter.

Pulse to your preferred consistency and transfer to a mixing bowl.

Stream in the olive oil, mix by hand, and season with a little salt.

In the meantime, bring a pan of salted water to a boil and add your favourite pasta shape. (We recommend around 75g of pasta per person.) Remove from the heat as soon as the pasta is al dente. Take a tablespoon of the starchy cooking water and add it to your pesto.

Drain the pasta, toss with the pesto, and garnish with a little more Parmesan and breadcrumbs.