Why Is Pesto Called Middle-Class Ketchup?

We've never been sure whether calling pesto "middle-class ketchup" is a playful compliment or a snobby jibe. Either way, few can deny that pesto has gone from being a little-known Italian delicacy in less than a generation to something so ubiquitous that it can even be used in the same sentence as Heinz's legendary ketchup.

Pesto's darkest hour

Despite our outspoken advocacy for using pesto in new and unusual contexts, we're the first to admit that it was a dark day when it first appeared on the menu of our local McDonald's. When the world's biggest purveyor of junk food takes a near-mythical sauce and tries to reinvent it in the context of a cheap, poor-quality beef burger, we know things have gone too far.

Is 'middle-class ketchup' a compliment?

Of course, some may argue that calling pesto middle-class ketchup is the ultimate form of flattery. After all, Heinz Tomato Ketchup can be found in the food cupboards of the poorest and wealthiest UK households, so maybe proponents of classic basil pesto should simply take the nickname as a compliment.

What's wrong with ketchup anyway?

Although some may not feel comfortable with the comparison, we're not convinced that comparing pesto with ketchup is an insult. Ketchup is the undisputed king of British condiments, and despite our general disdain for highly processed food, we love dipping our chips into it as much as the next person. We use it as an ingredient in our top-secret BBQ hot sauce and occasionally stir it through a ragù if we think its complex sweet and umami qualities would benefit the sauce.

We also take comfort in knowing that we're not alone. Even Michelin-starred chef Paul Rankin admits that ketchup has been present in almost every professional kitchen he has worked in.

Calling pesto middle class shows an undeniable hint of snobbery.

There can be little denying that bringing the "middle class" into the conversation brings a sense of perceived sophistication. It implies that the palates of the working classes somehow aren't developed enough to enjoy the complex flavours of an expertly made pesto.

In Italy, that argument is ludicrous. All members of society have traditionally enjoyed pesto for decades. Indeed, the rich in the country's north had better access to the finest cheeses and pine nuts. But just because the poorer people in the south tended to use cheaper walnuts and more of their abundant herbs to make up for what they lacked in pecorino doesn't mean they sat down to anything less delicious or sophisticated.